Winter seems to have dragged its feet but spring is finally here.  Seems like it might have a shorter ‘turn’ than it normally has.  

It might be time to brace ourselves for the spring of 2013, when lots of events that should be separated in time are going to be inconveniently coincident.  It’s hard to say what will be different, but it is probably a safe bet that our window to treat will be the same for more than the usual number of pest/diseases.  Please accept our assurances that we are aware of the potential backups we may experience, and that we will manage. 

Plain, old-fashioned luck can also play a meaningful role.  If we have a few calm, clear days at appropriate times, there will be no problem.  If the rain and winds are relentless and do not let up, that can be problematic for anyone.  The technology (degree-day accumulation) and databases now exist that give us the capacity to predict accurately enough, on a day to day basis, the proper timing for various treatments we use to manage disease and insect infestations. 

In any case, S&S Tree & Landscaping Specialists will provide the most professional, and cost-effective pest management protocols available.  

Mark Stennes
ISA Board Certified Master Arborist – MN-0147B

Your lawn needs time to dry out from the most recent rain and snow.  Once the ground has thawed and dried out, you can get started.

Clean Up
Pick up any sticks or bark that may have fallen through the winter.  Rake your lawn, gently.  The goal is to get rid of debris not tear out your lawn.

Overseed
Re-seeding-rake out old grass down to soil.  Spread out seed and rake in.  Do not apply a crabgrass preventer to these areas.  Apply fertilizer when you overseed and again once the seed germinates.

Fertilize
Fertilize with a crabgrass preventer around the middle of May.  Fertilizer will help thin lawns fill in and prevent weed seeds from germinating
ALLWAYS READ FERTILIZER BAG OR ANY CHEMICAL CONTAINER BEFORE USING IT AND FOLLOW DIRECTIONS

Weed Control
When your soil reaches 50 degrees, apply a pre-emergent herbicide to keep crabgrass away.  Remember, if you over-seed, a pre-emergent will also keep the grass from germinating.  Spot spray broadleaf weeds as they appear, usually hotter areas such as south side and along concrete.

Prepare Lawn Mower
Sharpen blades and set height of cut to 2.5 “.  Complete any additional tune ups as needed

For information on full service lawn care, please contact our office at 651-451-8907.

If you’re concerned about a damaged tree or shrub, call our office today.  651-451-8907

Call it what you will, but “climate wierding” is pretty good terminology for what’s happening on the local weather front.  The complete lack of winter-busting spring weather is holding everything back, including oak tree development. If anything good could come of that, the safe period for pruning oak trees can be extended to at least Friday, the 19^th of April.

It is relevant to note that the University of Minnesota reports the earliest estimated transition to high risk oak pruning is April 9.  This is an estimation and they follow with the request to check back after  April 9 for updates.  I fully expect them to adjust the high risk status at that time.

That still does not leave a lot of time, but it should be enough to get your oak work done if you push the ball, and call right away. We will respond promptly, and will do everything we can to accomodate you before the end of oak wilt pruning season.

This graph shows the historical infestation progression witnessed in cities across the eastern part of the United States.

This year, the Twin Cities are entering into their 5th season since the initial find as noted on the graph.  As you can see, ash mortality begins to increase greatly between years 6 and 7.  2013 will likely bring additional emerald ash borer finds and subsequently additional tree removals.

To date, emerald ash borer has been found in four counties.  For more information on exact locations, visit the Minnesota Department of Agriculture’s website.

What can you do?

Stop the spread
Transporting firewood infested with EAB is the fastest way to spread this insect.  Always remember – burn it where you buy it, don’t transport firewood.

Know the signs
Be aware of EAB signs and symptoms enabling you to report possible infestations to arrest.the.pest@state.mn.us.  If you think your trees may have EAB, review the MDA checklist.

Make an informed decision
Decide if you’d like to save your trees.   If you’re not sure, use this calculator to find the value of the benefits your tree provides. Still not sure, consult an ISA certified arborist and review your treatment options.

Early Spring Greetings for 2013! Before the seasonal pressure is on, and while it is still early, is the time to make your Plant Health Care plans for the season. Given the unpredictability of the weather/climate in recent years, it is hard to generalize, but there are some items of growing concern.

Emerald Ash Borer

Except for a few recent, isolated finds, the Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) seems to have been hiding since it first appeared four years ago. But the experts agree that we must not be complacent; no affected communities have escaped for long. In fact, there are cities in the mid-west that are dominated and overrun by dead ash trees. It not only looks bad, it is bad. They are losing their most important and valuable urban environmental assets; their trees! The loss of trees is just the start.  When you lose trees, you also lose the benefits they provide; storm water filtration and energy savings to name a few.  With the potential magnitude of ash tree loss due to EAB, residents stand to lose 1 million annually on these two benefits alone.  Accordingly, if you have particularly valuable, healthy ash trees, now may be the time to treat them and contact your city representative to find out about your community’s plan to manage the destruction of EAB.

Japanese Beetle

Japanese Beetle (JB) will become more problematic. Depending upon what your expectations are, and what your level of commitment is, we can help put together a management plan that should meet your needs. It is important to note that JB management is an ongoing challenge; it is not possible to eliminate the insect completely.  If you treat but your neighbor doesn’t, Japanese Beetle will continue to return to your property.
Photo by David Cappaert

Bur Oak Blight

For the benefit of our clients who live in neighborhoods dominated by native oak woodlands, or on lots with native oak trees, it is important to protect their health and vitality, and never take them for granted. While native oak trees are as attractive, reliable and giving as any trees can be, vigilance is still important. Specifically, there is an emerging disease of bur oak called Bur Oak Blight (BOB). Symptoms for homeowners to look for are leaves drying up prematurely in the summer, with “clumps” of leaves hanging on, mostly in the lower canopy, all winter long. Affected trees can look pretty rough in late summer and fall. If you have noticed something peculiar with your oak trees, or are concerned for their well-being, give us a call. We can put together a reliable plan for keeping your oak trees safe, healthy and attractive.

Drought

Finally, remain mindful of the extended drought last summer and fall, and look for stress, particularly in your evergreens. If you have concerns, or anticipate a need for professional eyes on your property, please call us. Our goal is to protect the vitality and appearance of your landscape plants, while minimizing unintended consequences.

Infected trees need to be removed in the winter to avoid the spread of the insect while damaged and infected trees should be removed or pruned in the winter to avoid future infestation.

All damaged and defective trees are the perfect target for insects and diseases.  Have an arborist out to evaluate the health and value of your trees.  If they need to be pruned or removed, winter really is the optimal time.  Find out more information on winter pruning.

If you have any questions on the Emerald ash borer or winter pruning, please contact our office at 651-451-8907 or leave a comment on this page.  Arborists are available to answer your questions.

Buy Local
Buying a tree close to home ensures it is more fresh than a tree that has made a multi-state trek to your home (and decreases gas emissions!).

Fresh is Best
Cutting your own tree is not only a fun activity, it’s actually the best way to keep it fresh.  Trees naturally seal wounds, this includes the base of the tree you are buying,  within roughly three hours of the cut.  Sap seals the base of the tree decreasing the amount of water your tree will take up.  If you can’t cut your own tree, ask the seller to cut off 1 to 1.5 inches of the base before taking your tree home.

Transport
Wrap your tree in plastic to protect it during the ride home.

Maintenance
Water your tree immediately.  If you don’t plan to put it up immediately, place it in a bucket of water until you’re ready.  Never let the base dry out.  Trees absorb up to 1 quart of water per inch of their trunk diameter a day.  Check the stand daily and top it off.  If the base does dry out, drill a few shallow holes and refill the stand with water.
Keep your tree away from heaters and fans and out of direct sunlight (I know, we love to put our trees on display in the front window but it isn’t the best location for its well being).  If possible, put a dehumidifier near it.  This will reduce the likelihood of it drying out prematurely.  The more hydrated your tree is the less of a fire hazard it is.

Safety
Use LED lights if possible.  They create the least amount of heat and are the safest choice for indoor trees.  Check strands yearly for defective wires and safety hazards.

End of Season
Yes, sadly, you will eventually need to part with the tree you’ve cared for over the last month.  Consider leaving it in your front yard as cover for birds and wildlife until spring when you can give it a second shot by recycling it.  Many cities have recycling programs and will turn your tree into mulch for someone else to enjoy.  Here is a list of Christmas Tree Recycling Centers in the Twin Cities.

Using these tips, you can expect to keep your tree looking fresh for a month, or even longer!

Information adapted from How to Keep Your Christmas Tree Fresh Longer.

Balsam Fir
With their flat, short needles and deep green top/silver underneath, the balsam fir has thick but airy foliage.  They have a symmetrical shape and fragrant evergreen smell.  Their branches are flexible and not ideal for heavy ornaments.

They last 4-6 weeks indoor but don’t like hot rooms.

Fraser Fir
With soft, rich, green needle tops and silver underneath, the strong branches of the fraser fir make this a great choice for heavy ornaments.  It has a fragrant fresh and airy smell.

It retains its needles well – 6+ weeks indoor and does well in warm rooms.

White Pine
Flexible, soft 2.5 to 5″ needles with a bluish green to silver green color.  Great for allergies, it is not fragrant.

Lasts 6-10 weeks and does well in warm rooms.

Scotch Pine
This tree comes in a variety of shades of green with 1 to 3 inch needles in bunches of two.  It has stiff branches allowing it to handle all types of ornaments. It has a fragrant, never fading evergreen smell.

It holds up well in warm rooms – 4-6 weeks before needles begin to brown.  Once they do, they won’t drop – nice and clean.

Blue Spruce
Distinctive for its silvery blue color and four sided needles, it has a nice pyramid shape.  It has sharp needles and is one of the least aromatic trees in this group.

Lasts 3-4 weeks in a warm room.

Black Hills Spruce
Darker and more dense than a white spruce, the black hills spruce has short, stiff blue-green needles. It has a subtle aroma.

It lasts 6-8 weeks.

Photos from Christmasfarms.com and squidoo.com.

As the weather gets colder we spend more time indoors.  The more time we spend indoors the more we start to notice stale air and the more ‘energy efficient’ our homes are the more likely they are to reduce drafts and airflow (fresh air) increasing that ‘stale air’ feeling.  Great for energy conservation, bad for air quality.  Air quality is decreased by common household products that emit toxic chemicals.  Fight back with…houseplants?!

Yes, houseplants.

NASA released a list of chemical reducing/removing houseplants discovered through their Clean Air Study which researched ways to clean air in their space stations.

Here are some of the best air-purifying houseplants and the toxins they are most effective at reducing:

1. Bamboo Palm (Chamaedorea seifritzii)-benzene, formaldehyde, trichloroethylene (TCE)
2. Chrysanthemums or mums (Chrysanthemum morifolium)-benzene, formaldehyde, TCE (the most effective plant against TCE according to NASA)
3. Common Ivy or English Ivy (Hedera helix)-benzene, formaldehyde, TCE, toluene, octane, terpene (the most effective plant against benzene according to NASA)
4. Ficus tree or Weeping fig (Ficus benjamina)-benzene, formaldehyde, TCE, octane, terpene
5. Mass cane (Dracaena massangeana)-benzene, formaldehyde, TCE (the most effective plant against formaldehyde, according to NASA)
6. Peace lily (Spathiphyllum)-benzene, formaldehyde, TCE (Avoid lilies if you have cats – they can be toxic)
7. Purple heart (Tradescantia pallida)-benzene, TCE, toluene, terpene
8. Red Ivy (Hemigraphis alternate)-benzene, TCE, toluene, octane, terpene
9. Spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum, Chlorophytum elatum)-formaldehyde, carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide
10. Wax plant (Hoya carnosa)-benzene, TCE, toluene, octane, terpene

NASA recommends using 15-18 good sized houseplants (6-8 inch diameter containers) to improve the air quality in a standard 1,800 square foot home.  If your house is larger or smaller, a good rule of thumb is one plant for every 100 square feet.

Here is  a more complete list of air filtering plants and their safety to children and pets.

List reprinted from 10 Houseplants That Clean The Air